What kind of soil do rhododendrons like

You can test it yourself with an inexpensive soil pH meter or soil pH test kit from a hardware or home center, or by taking a soil sample to your county or state cooperative extension service. Most rhododendron varieties require soil pH between 5 and 5. If your soil pH is higher than 5.

Test your soil regularly to make sure that the soil doesn't become overly acidic. If you are preparing a new rhododendron bed and need to lower the soil pH, apply 1. Iron sulfate works faster than elemental sulfur but costs more.

Thoroughly till the bed to work the amendments into the soil. The other caveat is unraked maple leaves, particularly of the Norway and Sugar Maple. These can get wet very easily and hold way too much moisture, smothering to death smaller plants and rotting low reaching branches of others.

Always a pleasure to read your well written pieces…. Hi Dave…. Perhaps in the future I will do an article on the right and wrong use of peat moss. Kathlin Smith said:. December 5, at pm. Your article makes sense to me. We live in Maryland, and are fortunate to have a woodland border lot.

When we moved to our house 20 years ago, there were a number of rhododendrons as well as many azaleas and mountain laurels thriving in what had become a neglected space. When we installed a patio out back, the landscapers added lots of rich soil to the adjacent garden where there were rhodos. Most of the garden plants did fabulously well, but the rhodos all died within two years. A few years ago, in an effort to repopulate some of my lost rhodos, I planted one in a garden far from where the previous rhodos had been I was worried that the rhodos might have died from root fungus, so did not want to replant close to that site.

The garden, of course, had amended soil. The rhodo did not thrive; after the first year it started to drop leaves and eventually died. While we no longer have rhodos on our property, the azaleas and mountain laurels have continued to do fine in their original non-soil-amended sites.

I appreciate your comments on mulch—with all of our trees, the gardens get mulched naturally. Saves a lot of work and money! Hi Kathlin, Yours is a great observation that often, less is more. Trying to improve soil often ruins it. All too often supposed landscapers do not know what they are doing; those who claim that title should have to prove they know something about the trade. Joan Kutcher said:. These are interesting observations. Hi Joan, yes the whole mycorrhizae topic is so important and its relationship to plants, especially those in the ericaceous adid loving family.

It might be a topic for an article in the future. NOTE for clarification: Mycorrhizae are beneficial fungi that are known to help many many plants, especially those in the ericaceous family. Jon from Kent, OH said:. Thanks for your insights! I just learned that here in Northeast Ohio, earthworms were wiped out by the glaciers about 11, years ago, so, for practical purposes, they are an invasive species! You nailed it perfectly with points 4 and 5 — oak leaves, and in my experience, birch leaves as well, tend to acidify soil in a mild, natural way.

Soil acidifiers in organic black soil may give the right overall pH, but will surely produce pockets or micro-zones of too much or too little acid,. There is nothing to hold onto, to stand up in, with soil that is too loose and friable. I am going to always think like a plant every spring!

When I see gardens, nearly any garden, mulched with them, that garden is dramatically better than others.

Me and my crew go and get them rescue them! Glad you see the connection. Elizabeth Hayes said:. I found your article interesting with some surprising facts. Who would have thought that earthworms would be a problems for rhodos? I live in a house that is almost 80 years old and the landscape has rhodos that are at last 60 years old. My rhodos are leggy but they still produce blooms though not as many as I would like. I have asked experts but they tell me one cannot prune rhodos as old as mine to increase buds.

Is that true? Acidity: Rhododendrons and azaleas prefer acidic soils having a pH between 4. Rhododendrons and azaleas will let you know if the pH is not correct. If the leaves turn yellow between green veins then you most likely have a pH problem.

If this occurs, a soil test is suggested for exact recommendations on adding a soil amendment to the soil in order to adjust the pH. Materials commonly used to lower soil pH are wettable sulfur or ferrous sulfate. Do not use aluminum sulfate to acidify the soil; it is toxic to rhododendron and azalea roots. Avoid planting azaleas near concrete sidewalks, driveways or foundations that may leach out lime which raises the pH.

In rare cases, the pH may be too low. This is equally serious and must be rectified. The recommendation is usually to use dolomitic limestone. Soil Mix: About half of the planting medium should be organic material. Combinations of sphagnum peat moss, pine or fir bark fines, compost, and aged, chopped leaves should be worked into the soil to a depth of about 12".

We bought a property with giant rhododendron shrubs. We also have azaleas. This is our third summer and we are not seeing much flowering.

We have new growth but the buds are opening to a bunch of leaves, not flowers. I found miracid in the garage and think maybe we should be fertilizing.

There is a good " in pine needles and oak leaves under these. Do I need to remove the leaves for the fertilizer to reach the plant roots? I know the pine needles are good for them. I live in Warminster, Pa. I believe my home is positioned southeast. My front door faces east and I have full sun from sunrise till about PM.

There is corner at the end of my porch which is bare. My plans were to put in a rhododendron bush in that spot. My daughter tells me they are shade plants. Who is right? I read somewhere these plants need 6 hours of sun. Thank you for your help. I forgot to ask in my previous comment, what time zone do I live in?

I always planted my annuals after Mother's day because I was not sure of my time zone. Please see the Planting section of this page above for advice on where to plant rhododendrons and what kind of lighting they prefer.

You are likely in Zone 7a, which gives you a lot of options when it comes to gardening! Skip to main content. You are here Gardening » Growing Guides. By Catherine Boeckmann. Buying Plants When shopping for rhododendron or azaleas, pay attention to when they flower.

Early varieties can blossom in March, late ones into July or even the fall. Buy plants that are a deep green not yellowed , not wilted, and well watered. Check the soil in the container with your finger and avoid plants that are bone dry.

Their thin petals shatter in the heat. In hot climates, buy plants in 3-gallon pots rather than 1-gallon pots. Small plants, with their fewer roots, struggle in the hot late spring and summer. Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site Most large-leafed varieties require dappled shade; avoid deep shade or full sun. A sunny spot that receives a few hours of shade is perfect. See regional guidelines below. Soil should be well-drained, humus-rich, moist, and acidic pH 4. Amend planting areas with compost, peat moss, or a substitute, only if your soil is poor.

Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting. Azaleas and rhododendrons have shallow root systems and need moist soil and mulch to keep them from drying out. Planting in Cold or Temperate Regions Zones 3 to 6 Plant in full sun to increase flowers and avoid mildew problems.

Shrubs need a minimum of 6 hours of full sun daily. Plant on the sheltered side of a windbreak. If subjected to cold, dry winds, their leaves and buds dry out and die.

Planting in Warm or Hot Regions Zones 7 to 11 Plant in a site that receives afternoon shade, especially in hot areas. In tropical zones, azaleas will bloom in full shade. Space plants 2 to 6 feet apart, depending on their estimated mature size. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 times as wide.